Which snowboard should you buy according to your level and style?

Discover how to choose the perfect snowboard for you. We analyze types, sizes, levels, and rider advice so you can make the right choice.

Legend has it that your snowboard should sit just below your chin and never go higher than eye level, otherwise it might cover your eyes and cause you to crash.

Never mind, it's 2024 and things have come a long way. The snowboard should be chosen taking into account the rider's weight and the type of snowboarding they intend to do.

One way factories test boards is to subject them to different stresses. Bending and torsion tests are performed on different axes. Different forces are applied to study the reactions they provoke, and ultimately, a force is simply that: weight plus the force of gravity.

Based on the results obtained from the various tests, the brands establish a scale that serves as a reference for choosing the size of your board.

Once you've found the board that's right for your weight, you can play around with the size depending on the type of snowboarding you plan to do. Looking up your weight in the "guide" above, you'll likely find yourself between three sizes. Let's assume you weigh 60 kg; according to the "guide," you can use 152, 154, and 156. We'll try to broadly describe, without taking into account the board's stiffness, what will happen when selecting each of the above sizes.

At 152cm, the guide tells us the board is rated to support a rider up to 68kg. Great, we're roughly between the maximum and minimum, so in principle this would be the most recommended board. Being the shortest of the three, it could be a good option for freestyle (jibbing) or for someone just starting out—a smaller board means it's easier to move.

154cm, intermediate, the most versatile of the three sizes. It would be the perfect option for someone looking for a do-it-all board, someone at an intermediate level.

156cm is the largest of the three and probably also the heaviest. I'd choose this size for someone with more experience; a larger board is more stable and also harder to move. This board will handle speed better and will also be more stable on landings.

None of the above will be of any use if we don't consider the waist or width of the board. While not a wide board (a wider-than-normal board built for riders with larger feet), this model increases in width with each size increase. It could be that your board is a size 52, but your foot is asking for a size 56.

As I said before, depending on the type of snowboarding you do, you can increase or decrease the size of your board. If you're dedicated to destroying every rail you find in the snow park or you're one of those who always carries a shovel in case it snows and you can hit that street spot you've been dreaming of, the ideal thing is to lower the size obtained through weight a little. Why? Because you have to move quickly. If, for example, you want to enter a rail while rotating, you can't carry a "gate" on your feet; that slows down your rotation. You need a " skateboard ," something light and easy to move.

If, on the other hand, you're a free spirit looking to leave your mark, a true freerider , then you need a boat, something that floats on the surface, something with a wide blade that allows you to carve out paths in the fresh powder. If this is your type of snowboard, the ideal would be to choose a larger board with more surface area for better floatation. If we distribute our body weight over a larger surface area (a larger board), less load reaches each point of the board, making it easier to stay afloat.

For speed freaks looking to reach the speed of light and knock the stickers off all the "palis," then you need a somewhat long "arrow" that allows you to gain stability while you beat the clock.

If you want something for everyone, you should keep in mind that the perfect board doesn't exist; if it's great on one terrain, it won't be as good on another. To achieve that Swiss Army knife, we'll follow the brand's recommendations and look for versatile shapes that can improve where the current sizes are lacking.

The shape is the shape of the board, how it's built. Depending on the shape, we can find directional boards, designed to ride in one direction , where we'll almost always have more nose than tail when setting up the bindings. Twin boards designed to ride both ways allow us to configure the bindings in a twin configuration, so the nose and tail can be the same. Finally, directional twins, a little bit of everything...

Camber is the shape of the arc created between the nose and tail of the board. This shape can make your board more reactive, more compliant, or more buoyant. There are countless cambers and a large number of hybrid boards that combine them to achieve the benefits of each. Below, we explain what each of the main cambers offers:

Positive/Traditional Camber: Easy to recognize, it forms an upward arc when the board is on a flat surface. The ground contact points are near the nose and tail, and the center of the board rises. These boards are stable, precise, with plenty of pop and power. They are good boards for carving. They hold well at high speeds and are suitable for expert riders. However, classic camber makes the board more reactive and therefore more prone to counter-edges. This type of board is not the most suitable for beginner riders.

Reverse camber, also known as banana camber, is the opposite of traditional camber. Instead of a raised center section, the nose and tail rise. The lowest point is in the center of the board, while the nose and tail rise and do not touch the snow. Unlike traditional camber, the rider's weight is distributed over a larger surface area, reducing the likelihood of edge contact, making them good boards for beginners. Their curved shape makes it easier to initiate turns, and the scooped nose and tail provide buoyancy in deep snow. Banana boards tend to be more unstable at high speeds, less precise, and less reactive since they don't deform much and therefore generate very little energy when returning to their original shape.

Zero camber/flat camber is the balance between reverse camber and classic camber. The board is completely flat from nose to tail. It retains the best properties of both cambers, offering better grip than reverse camber but worse than traditional camber. It's more reactive than a banana and more maneuverable than positive camber. Flat camber boards are ideal if you want an all-around snowboard. If you're the type of person who goes to the park late after riding all over the terrain, this type of camber is for you.

Hybrid/mixed camber is a combination of the previous cambers, seeking to bring out the best of each. This camber provides great reactivity and increases the board's pop, as its aggressive shape deforms in many places and generates more energy when it returns to its original shape. The rocker in the nose and tail provides floatation and facilitates turn entry, avoiding edge overshoots to a greater or lesser extent.

Every day you can find weirder cambers and crazier builds; technology advances tremendously. You have to look at these new boards with an open mind, educate yourself to take advantage of what's truly useful and discard what isn't.

In short, find a board that suits your weight, analyze your snowboard, and buy a larger or smaller size based on your riding style. Now that you have a rough idea of ​​the performance of each camber, choose the one that best suits you.

If you're still not sure after reading this article, book a snowboard assessment with our specialized advisors on our website. For one hour, you'll have the exclusive attention of one of our sports technicians.